Island Peak (Imja Tse) Climbing

Island Peak is one of the most popular highest mountain peaks trekking in Nepal. Island Peak Climbing has recently drawn a lot of attention among tourists, especially those who are enthusiasts of adventurous mountain climbing. Located in the Khumbu region of northeastern Nepal, Island peak climbing is one of the splendid peaks with an elevation of 6189mt.from the sea level. Locally known as Imja Tse, it was first climbed by Charles Evan, Alf Gregory, Charles Wylie, and Tenzing Norgay in 1953 as a route to Mount Everest expedition. It was then named Island Peak as it appears like an island in an ocean of ice from Dingboche. The Island peak is used as a training peak before attempting Mount Everest to help acquire several skills such as crossing crevasses with ladders, using jumars on fixed lines. The trip to Island peak offers the best climbing opportunity for beginners who wish to experience Himalayan climbing.

Island peak climbing offers an adventurous and exhilarating peak climbing experience with the majestic views of several world-renowned snow-capped mountains (Mount Lhotse 8501mt, Makalu 8475mt, Lhotse Middle peak 8410mt, Lhotse Shar 8383mt, Nuptse 7879mt, Baruntse 7720mt, and Ama Dablam 6856mt) in the Everest region. The peak climbing is combined with the Everest Base Camp which is easily accessible from Chhukung village, just way off the Everest Base Camp Trail. The journey starts with a 45 minutes flight to Lukla from Kathmandu. Arriving at Lukla, we will get ready and trek to Phakding which is a gentle climb for 2-3 hours through the left bank of Dudhkoshi River. We will stay at Phakding for a night exploring the local monasteries of the place.

The trek continues towards the Namche Bazar which is a 5-6 hours walk from Phakding through the Dudhkoshi valley. On the way towards the Namche Bazar, we will stop at the Sagarmatha National Park and collect our entrance fee. We will ascend steep hills alongside the Bhotekoshi River on our way to Namche Bazar. Trekking slowly and steadily through the pine forest we will reach Namche Bazar where we will stay overnight for the sake of acclimatization.

The trek further continues to Tengboche then Dingboche to Chhukung from where the trail goes uphill towards the Imja Valley and finally to the base camp of Island peak’s south ridge where you can enjoy mesmerizing views beneath the Nuptse-Lhotse wall. The next day we will start towards Island peak very early morning scrambling along a rock ridge to a glacier. Above the glacier, there is a steep snow headwall which leads to the summit with the stunning view of mountains Nuptse (7879m), Lhotse (8501m), Lhotse Central (8475m), and Lhotse Shar (8383m) in the north as well as striking views of Makalu (8475m), Baruntse (7129m) and one of the famous expedition peak of Amadablam (6812m). Next, we descend and follow back the trail for our return journey to reach back to Lukla. The journey back to Kathmandu from the Lukla Airport is exciting and you can enjoy the mind-blowing scenic mountain flight watching the clear mountain range above the clouds.

Difficulty level:

Island peak climbing is challenging yet perfect for beginners who are interested in mountain climbing. The peak was first climbed on the route to the expedition of Mount Everest. Nowadays, most mountaineers use it as a training peak before starting their journey to Mount Everest to acquire mountaineering and snow hill climbing skills. The trek demands the utmost physical fitness and enough technical skills to use the gears for snow hill climbing. A positive mindset and strong determination will further help in boosting confidence.

Island peak can be extremely difficult at an extreme altitude. It is important to acclimatize to the oxygen deficiency gradually along the trail. Besides that, the journey is well equipped with experienced porters and guides as well as with satisfactory lodging and food facilities.

Best season for Climbing:

Besides winter and monsoon season, other seasons are considered suitable for Island Peak Climbing. The best months to climb Island Peak are April, May, September, October, and November. Low rain and less extreme cold can help in making the climb successful around this time of the year. April, May are the seasons for Everest Expedition and these seasons coincide with your island peak climbing, so you may encounter many Everest Expedition teams during these seasons.